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AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Exam

AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Exam image

The SPI Exam is two days in length (minimum of 16 hours of assessment time) and takes place at single-pitch climbing areas with a range of traditional lead routes of at least 5.6 difficulty and top rope routes of at least 5.8 difficulty. The exam evaluates all aspects of institutional single-pitch instruction.

Day one emphasizes technical proficiency, including climbing movement, anchor building, base assistance skills, and the top managed skills scenario. Candidates demonstrate their ability to apply efficient and effective systems appropriate to single-pitch instruction while managing realistic challenges in a scenario-based context.

Day two focuses on instructional application through group planning and facilitation of a day of climbing and instruction in a peer-to-peer setting. This includes lesson delivery, integration of technical and movement skills, and demonstration of effective risk management, communication, teaching technique, and decision-making within a collaborative instructional context.

Candidates may enroll in an SPI Exam within two years of completing an SPI Course and meeting all Exam prerequisites, including required post-course resume experience. Most successful candidates spend 3-6 months practicing, teaching, and refining their skills prior to taking the SPI Exam.

2026 Dates:

  • Tuesday, May 12th & Wednesday, May 13th

  • Friday, May 15th & Saturday, May 16th. Sold Out.

  • Friday, October 2nd & Saturday, October 3rd

Prerequisites

Updated in 2026
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Candidates meet the SPI Exam prerequisites if they:

  • Course completion

    • Have successfully completed an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course within the past two years.

    • For SPI recertification candidates, certification must be current or within one year of expiration.

  • Climbing Experience

    • Have traditionally led a minimum of 40 rock climbing routes (at least 15 of which must have been completed after the candidate’s most recent SPI program - course or exam).

    • At least 5 top-managed routes.

    • Post-program instructional climbing as outlined below:

      • Of the 15 post-program routes, at least 5 must be mock or paid instruction.

  • Leading ability (demonstrated during the exam)

    • Be capable of comfortably lead climbing on any 5.6 traditional route.

    • Candidates will demonstrate their leading ability on a variety of routes during the assessment.

  • Top-rope climbing ability (demonstrated during the exam)

    • Be capable of comfortably climbing 5.8 on top rope.

    • Candidates will demonstrate top-rope climbing ability during the assessment.

Experience Considerations & Resume Notes

The following items clarify how route experience is evaluated and what constitutes a complete SPI Exam resume:

  • Candidates are strongly encouraged to have substantial experience at the 5.6 grade and above, and to have climbed in varied locations and on a variety of rock types, as this breadth of experience supports success during the SPI Exam.

  • Multi-pitch routes may be included; however, each multi-pitch climb counts as one route, regardless of the number of pitches. The requirement is 40 routes, not 40 pitches.

  • All resume routes must be led clean by the candidate.

  • Routes must have been completed within four years of the SPI Exam date.

Gear List

Gear List image

Required Equipment:

  • Sticky Rubber Approach Shoes.

  • Clothing appropriate for the activity & environment.

  • Helmet.

  • Harness.

  • Climbing Shoes.

  • Rack with cams, stoppers, etc. Double rack from .6" - 3" recommended.

  • Slings + Quickdraws for leader protection.

  • 1-2x "Double Length" Slings - 120cm/48" (at least one should be a non-dyneema material).

  • 4 or more HMS/Pear Shaped Carabiners (e.g DMM Phantom HMS).

  • 4-5 additional locking carabiners.

  • Tube Style Belay/Rappel Device.

  • Assisted Braking Device (e.g Petzl Grigri).

  • Prusik Loop

  • 1-2 Cordelettes (7mm nylon cord or tech cord; 18-20' long).

  • Optional: Triple Length (120cm) or Quad Length (180cm) dyneema sling.

  • Climbing Rope (60 or 70M).

  • Static Rope (we recommend a 40M length). The 10mm Sterling SafetyPro is a solid choice.

Have a gear question or think you might need to borrow something? Reach out to Grant@cathedralmountainguides.com and ask away!

Course Provider:

Grant Simmons
Course Provider: image

All Single Pitch Instructor Programs through Cathedral Mountain Guides are taught by Grant Simmons.

Grant is an AMGA certified Rock Guide, Ice Instructor, Single Pitch Instructor, and SPI Provider. He is the Managing Partner of CMG, a small and thoughtful guide service based in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. Grant believes in sharing both experiences and skills with the folks that he works with and aims to empower his guests as they work to achieve their climbing goals.

Grant began his guiding career by taking an SPI Course with the Atlantic Climbing School in 2012. He finds it amazing that it has come full circle and now he is teaching the course that first taught him that, "no, you may not wear sandals when you guide". My has he come a long way!

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Tuition & Enrollment

$515/person.
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Cancellation Policy. All cancellations are subject to a $25.00 administrative fee. Cancellations made within 3-5 weeks of the program's start date will result in a 50% refund. Any cancellation made within 3 weeks of the program's start date will result in full loss of payment.

Weather. Should the weather not be suitable for the program, your trip total will be refunded. It is up to Cathedral Mountain Guides to determine what conditions are, or are not, suitable for the trip. No one should be miserable on their days out, but please understand that adverse conditions may be a part of your experience. We don’t really want to climb in the rain either, but we might have to!