From Arequipa, to the great lake of Titicaca, to Cusco and hidden villages in between, this  14-day journey is an intimate encounter with Peru off-the-beaten path. Limited to only 12 passengers, our travels takes us through unusual and spectacular corners of this living earth. Alpaca is our bridge across the Altiplano and southern Andes and into a culture of weaving, creativity and reverence. 

We follow the silky warm thread of spun alpaca wool through the bracing air of the high Andes, weaving together ancient knowledge and modern times. In the old wisdom ways of the Andean people, alpaca was considered a bridge between humans and Pachamama, our living earth. 

As we travel we meet skilled artisans, entrepreneurs and activists. We visit IFAM textile artisans, Timoteo Ccarita and Benita Ccana, in their village of Pitumarca as well as the renowned Nilda Callañaupa at the textile cooperative she founded in Cusco. We’ll also meet lesser known experts of thread, like grandmother Santusa Cutipa, whose hands and knowledge keep the old stories alive in a small village in a far corner of the southern Andes. 

We begin in Arequipa, at the base of the Misti volcano. This city of white stone is a place of delicious food, deep history and vibrant markets as well as being the world center of Alpaca wool production. From here we travel to the Colca Canyon, famous for its countless Incan terraces, hot springs, condor roosts and embroidery.  Then onward to Lake Titicaca at 12,500’. These waters are the mythical birthplace of Andean civilization and home to island cultures that are like time capsules, where no cars exist and quiet pervades. Where the finery of men’s knitting in their sacred hats is a symbol of their worthiness as mates. Where people have built floating islands of reeds to live on. Where the bold among you may choose to take a plunge in that blue water. On the altiplano we will visit small villages that live respectfully off the land around them,  and where there is a culture of alpacaboys rather than cowboys. Our travels through southern Peru follow ancient trade routes that, in the end, bring us to the historic Incan capital of Cusco, where all the creative arts of this deeply rooted land come together. 

As we travel we’ll stay in a mixture of lodgings, from a 17th century mansion morphed into a hotel in historic Cusco, to a riverside hotel-spa with thatched roofs and hot springs. But perhaps the most meaningful stays will be the homestays in simple rooms hosted by heart-centered families who will receive us with a kind of care and genuine thoughtfulness that one doesn’t often encounter in our modern world.    

This journey is rich with layers and depth. It is about handmade textiles, warm fibers that come from the land around, and most of all, the creative expression of humans who have always known how to listen to Pachamama to find their guidance. We greatly look forward to guiding a few of you into this land. 

Peru Alpaca and the Southern Andes is custom designed for IFAM and operated by Traditions Tours/Eric Mindling.  Our Tour Host and coordinator is Hillary Freeman. Please feel free to contact her with any questions at hillaryfreemantravels@gmail.com or 650-400-1106 

D/Arequipa  (B=Breakfast, L=Lunch, D=Dinner included in tour price)

Our journey begins in the southern Peruvian city of Arequipa* , called the White City because of the volcanic stone used to construct the colonial era buildings. Sitting  on the edge of the southern Andes and framed by three volcanoes this city is the perfect place to begin our travels. With an elevation of 7,500 feet it allows our bodies to adjust to altitude before we head into the highlands. And being on the edge of the altiplano, an ideal environment for raising alpaca and vicuna, Arequipa is at the center of production of these luscious fibers. Check into our 18th century hotel located in the heart of gorgeous old town Arequipa and plan to meet with the group at 6pm for a briefing before enjoying a delicious welcome dinner at a renowned venue.

*You will connect through Lima (LIM) to get to Arequipa (AQP). As our tour ends in Cuzco (CUZ), it works well to purchase round trip airfare to Lima from your home, and a one way ticket Lima-Arequipa and a one way ticket Cuzco-Lima.  We meet at our hotel at 6PM the evening of the 29th. Plan to depart Cusco anytime on the 12th. 

Overnight at Hotel Casa de Melgar

B,L/Arequipa

We begin out our front door, spending the morning exploring the heart of this vibrant, centuries-old city. Our path will bring us to the San Camilo food market, thronging with life! Markets are the best way to feel the pulse of the land one is visiting with all it’s genuine flavor and life. We follow with a guided visit to the Andean Sanctuaries Museum, featuring ancient textiles and information about their use in the potent rituals of the ancient Andes.  After lunch and a rest, we head to the outskirts of the city to meet Andrea Garrafa, a remarkable textile artist and entrepreneur.

Overnight at Hotel Casa de Melgar

 B,L/Arequipa

Our morning is spent exploring a village out of time hidden in the heart of the city. The place is called the Convent of Santa Catalina. Long ago a large city block was walled off as a convent, and inside over the centuries a world unto itself emerged. Now partially open to the public, we explore with wide eyes. We then visit the Michelle Alpaca factory museum to learn about this iconic textile mill that works exclusively with alpaca fiber. Michelle is one of the leading global producers of alpaca yarns and tops. The arc of this trip takes us from this modern edge and then into the deep highlands to see the way these beautiful fibers have been worked with since time beyond memory.  Lunch will be at a local picanteria. Then we will visit two textile artisans. First a young weaver named Elsbeth Cardenas and then, in her home-workshop, Natividad Condori, an embroiderer originally from the Colca Canyon area, who has become a legendary innovator of her people's art while representing the stories of the migrants who came to the city in the 80s. 

Overnight at Hotel Casa de Melgar

B,L,D/Yanque

Our two and a half days in Arequipa have given our bodies a chance to adapt to thinner air. We are now ready to climb into the highlands, so today we board our coach and travel. We will traverse the  plateaus in the Salinas and Aguada Blanca National Reserve, home of alpacas, llamas, and the wild and beautiful vicuñas. We will stop as we travel to take in this stunning region and snap some photos. Lunch will find us at a famous roadside eatery to enjoy soups, sandwiches and tea for the altitude. Passing pampas, wetlands and volcanoes, we end our day’s traverse descending into the Colca Canyon where we will take the afternoon easy in the 11,000 ft air. Our hotel, located on the outskirts of the village of Yanque,  is the Colca Lodge. It overlooks the Colca river and has the delicious plus of onsite hot springs and a spa. A gorgeous way to ease into the altitudes.  

Overnight at Colca Lodge

B,L/Yanque

We begin our day early as we go in search of the majestic Andean Condor. We travel to an overlook above the Colca Canyon known for its breathtaking views and peacefully wait for these rare birds, the largest birds of prey in the world, to gift us with a fly by.  And being in a place of spectacular views, we will wander between overlooks and take in the awe. Returning to Yanque, we will meet with master embroiderer Celestina Cayllahua, who is also the head of the Yanque Artisan Association. Then a barbecue lunch and time to soak in the hot springs of our hotel.  We again take it slow in the afternoon, being kind to our bodies at altitude.   

Overnight at Colca Lodge

 B,L,D/Sibayo Rumillacta

After 2 nights at 11,000’ above sea level, our bodies are now ready for a bit more. We say farewell to the Yanque area and embark on a day full of adventure and new experiences. We will drive up the Colca River valley towards the old town of Sibayo Rumillaqta, a place of proud traditions. This village of stone and thatch has been awarded for its pioneering work in community based tourism and textile knowledge conservation. We shift gears for a moment in our lodging with village homestays. We will spread out among different houses in the village and stay in private, simple and clean rooms built just for this. This is a particularly special opportunity, as we get to meet families and step out of the hotel world. Plus, every cent of the lodging fee goes directly to the families we stay with, supporting this ancient village in modern times. Immersing ourselves in the village we’ll take a walk along an ancient trail with a pack of llamas, then spend the afternoon with the local weavers association "Sumaq Pallay", gathering at their communal center and learning first-hand about their techniques and achievements. In the evening there will be a celebration in the Andean way to welcome us to this timeless village. Welcome to a deeper Peru. 

Overnight village homestays

B,L,D/Puno

Today is another early day, for we have ground to cover, crossing the highlands towards the legendary Lake Titicaca.  But first, a generous Andean-style breakfast and farewells after this short, but sweet visit. We will make a few fascinating stops en route to the great lake. The first will be at 16,000’ Patapampa pass, which offers magnificent views of mountain ranges and valleys. Later, we will visit the Alpaca research center led by DescoSur, perhaps the most important development NGO in the Southern Andes. Hosted by scientific experts, the visit will introduce us to the role they play in empowering local communities in the conservation and improvement of their camelid population. As we travel the views will be consistently breathtaking, and mid-afternoon will find us at the mystical and mysterious sacred funerary site of Sillustani, with its amazing rock towers. This is an awe-inspiring place. By late afternoon we come to the city of Puno and head straight to our hotel, located on the shores of Lake Titicaca. 

Overnight at Sonesta Posada del Inca Puno 

B,L/Puno

We spend the day on the great lake. Titicaca, 12,500’,  is the mythical origin of humanity in the ancient stories of Peru. You will see that it is a place of considerable presence and power.  We navigate its blue waters in a private boat with the support of a local guide. We head early across her waters to the island of Taquile. An ancient world unto itself, Taquile has no roads, no cars,  no noise. We explore by foot with Juan Quispe, a community leader and a master of the refined knitting practiced here. We will visit his home, the communal craft market and wander to a sandy beach. Those brave enough to dip into the chilly water, are more than welcome! Returning to Puno, we stop at the floating reed islands of the Uros people and learn about this unique culture. 

Overnight at Sonesta Posada del Inca Puno 

 B,L/Puno

Today we stay closer to home, slowing down. We will travel into corners of Puno city to meet some impressive artisans and entrepreneurs. These women are the true force of the textile industry in this region. We meet Mery Mamani at her house and workshop. Mery will explain to us the process that took her from selling goods for tourists in Lima to becoming a successful businesswoman in the textile industry of Puno. Later we will meet for lunch in downtown Puno with Paula Mamani, whose 45 years of experiences and story sharing will provide us greater insight about the identity of the women entrepreneurs of Puno. We leave the afternoon open giving you time to rest, wander, etc.

Overnight at Sonesta Posada del Inca Punol

B,L,D/Ñuñoa

Our migration into deeper Peru continues as we point northwards into the Altiplano. We are heading towards the lovely old town of Ñuñoa. But we’ll have some fun before we get there, visiting  the pretty village of Palca, which happens to be the hometown of two of the best textile crafters in all of Puno. They represent two different ways to excel at weaving. Santusa Cutipa is a weaver awarded with the title Maestra Regional Artesana as well as a highly regarded national folkart prize.  Her work is unique, as she's determined to recreate the crafting weaving techniques of her ancestors like no other. We’ll also visit the home of Teodoro Pacco, both a weaver and a visual artist with a more contemporary philosophy, who has shown in contemporary art fairs in Lima. We travel on through the gorgeous Tinajani Canyon then stop for lunch in the cheese-producing town of Ayaviri. Afternoon finds us arriving in Ñuñoa where we will meet Dominique, our host for these next days. Dominique runs the family property, Hacienda Esmeralda and our time here will allow us to dig deeper into the world of alpaca ranches, and their struggles amidst global warming.  Once again we enjoy the simple privilege of staying in a family property and immersing ourselves in a cozy and slow world. We have arrived in the middle of nowhere, the edge of forever, a land of cowboys (alpaca boys really), starry nights and astonishing landscapes. Sigh and remember a slower world that once was, and here, still is. 

Overnight at Hacienda Esmeralda home stay

 B,L,D/Ñuñoa

We came here to visit the alpaca farms, and we will visit one of the most prominent in the Ñuñoa area. To do so we have to take the road up the Andes once again. Early morning, hearty breakfast, warm clothes, and off we go! This morning we are visiting the Kero Viluyo farm, property of Mr. Guillermo Tijero, owner of some of the finest quality alpacas in the country. We will learn with him about the genetic management of alpacas and the ins & outs of running his business. Plus we get to hang with alpaca! After having lunch here, we will head back to our home base, for a relaxed afternoon which may include a visit to the nearby natural hot springs. This evening, simple fun, which will include making our own pizzas and perhaps raising a toast to our spectacular journey with mulled wine.

Overnight at Hacienda Esmeralda home stay

B,L/Cusco

Today we begin the final leg of this pilgrimage we’ve enjoyed through the vast and spectacular southern Andes and the Altiplano.  We are heading to Cusco, the former capital of the Incan confederation and the heart of hearts of the Peruvian Andes. Our journey today will be rich. First we cross La Raya pass: Waters on one side flow to Lake Titicaca, waters on the other drop into the Amazon basin. We ourselves descend into a valley among mountains, following the Vilcanota River as it grows from a creek to a white water river, carving the famed Peruvian Sacred Valley in the process. We will stop at the impressive and imposing Inkan ruins of Racchi for a guided tour of this important site.  And we’ll visit the town of Pitumarca, one of the most famed textile areas in the Cusco region. Here we’ll meet two IFAM artists, the renowned power couple Timoteo Ccarita and Benita Ccana and learn about their community and progress toward national recognition. We will joyfully arrive in Cusco by late afternoon, having come from the edge of forever to the heart of hearts in just one day. Not too bad! And now we begin to celebrate this gem on earth while easing into the delight of our lovely hotel in a converted 17th century mansion in the center of historic Cusco.

Overnight at Hotel Costa del Sol Windham

B,D/Cusco

We close our travels with a day in Cusco. We begin with a visit to the Center of Traditional Textiles of Cusco, to meet its legendary leader, activist and notable IFAM artisan, Nilda Callañaupa. We will share a morning with Nilda, learning about her experience in organizing a paramount women's empowerment project through textile and community. We’ll also give you an introduction to this city, providing you with the insights to continue exploring on your own. The afternoon is free, wander to your heart’s content. We will meet early evening for a final briefing before we head to a memorable farewell dinner at one of the finest restaurants in the city.

Overnight at Hotel Costa del Sol Windham

 B/Cusco

Plan to depart anytime today. Book a flight from Cusco to Lima and then onward, or sign up for our extension to Machu Picchu to visit one of the most spectacular archaeological sights on earth.   

Hillary Freeman is our fantastic host for this journey to Peru and she will be your support before and during this journey.   Please feel free to contact her with any questions at hillaryfreemantravels@gmail.com or 650 489-1054.  

Hillary describes herself as a leader, mentor, educator, polymath, and travel expert. She has been traveling since she was 5 years old, as both of her parents were avid adventurers. She has lead 25+  international travel adventures to 9 countries in Asia, Europe, Central America and South America. Hillary is a people person. She looks for the light in everyone she meets.  She ensures travelers safety while helping them immerse in the experiences. Humor, fun, activity, and camaraderie are key components to trips she leads.  Hillary is a mother of two and lives in the San Francisco Bay Area. She enjoys hiking, biking, swimming, playing tennis, and all water sports. Her water polo team won a gold medal in the senior Olympics.  Hillary’s academic interests range from human culture, philosophy, and the arts to STEM (Science, Technology, Engineering, and Math).