Two days to Laguna Toro, with a night camping by the lake, with a local mountain guide from Fitz Roy Expediciones. Not Laguna Torre: the other one, the lake hardly anyone knows.

Day 1: we walk out of El Chaltén on the Loma del Pliegue Tumbado trail, cross the steppe and wet meadows, climb to almost 1,100 metres and drop into the Río Túnel valley through lenga forest. Then you are in front of a grey glacial lake with the Túnel Glacier pouring into it: the start of the Huemul Circuit. We set up camp and have dinner by the lake.

Day 2: breakfast facing the glacier, then back to town the same way, with Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre ahead.

About 16 km a day (32 km in all), around 830 metres of climbing on day one. Demanding because of the distance. Season: October to April. The Park trekking registration is compulsory; we help you with it.

Included: bilingual guide, all meals, shared tent and radio. Not included: personal gear and the National Park fee.

While everyone in El Chaltén queues for the Fitz Roy photo, you head the other way. Laguna Toro is the closest you can walk to the Southern Ice Field in two days: on the far side of Paso del Viento the ice begins.