Riding out of Leh early, we head for the mother of all passes, Khardung-La. At an elevation of 17,582 ft, altitude sickness is a real danger so we will only remain long enough to drink in the awe-inspiring reality that you are over a half-mile higher than the highest summit in the contiguous United States. The ride down into Nubra Valley is pure motorcycling bliss. The gravel has been replaced in most places with a smooth ribbon of tarmac and the sweepers have no end as we descend to a more manageable 10,000 ft. and our rest stop for the night, the tiny village of Hunder.