This is our most off the beaten path tour where we go down many a goat trail in the mountain regions of coastal Oaxaca. We visit with people who still practice the traditional ways  of their ancestors. In search of genuine cross cultural encounters, we visit bustling markets, organic farmers, food stands and skilled artisans in 6 different communities allowing us to go both deep and wide. In each town, we have local guides as cultural ambassadors. They also serve to translate as many of the people we visit speak only their indigenous language.  Most rarely host tourists.

The traditions are old, the coconuts fresh, the tortillas delicious and the people are, sometimes shy, but mostly charming and fun.  Plus we bookend the trip with time at the beach to refresh and renew. Add on your own beach time at the beginning or end! 

Our four star hotel in Puerto Escondido has two pools and an on site delicious vegetarian restaurant. The lodgings in Pinotepa  are basic and clean with a pool which you will love at the end of a hot humid day. In San Pedro Amuzgos we stay in the private  home of a world class weaver and folk art collector. It May be one of the most charming places to stay high up in La Mixteca. 

You’ll be hard pressed to find a trip advisor restaurant review for many of the places we visit, but the street side stands and home cooking we encounter make for a very deep dive into regional cooking and slow food. Sesame cookies, fresh coconut, bone broth stew, fermented pineapple drinks, nixtmalized corn, banana leaf tamales and homemade hooch all make appearances. Truly a local cuisine. 

This may be ground zero for slow fashion. We visit communities that have been raising cotton for thousands of years and still wear clothes they make from hand spinning. We’ll hear from farmers working to revive ancient organic traditions, weavers designing for the internet and groups of women working collectively. 

DEPOSITS & PAYMENTS

Your $500 deposit is non refundable and holds your place. Final non refundable payment is due 30 days before the start of the trip. Please be committed  to this trip  Failure to make your final payment in 30 days before the trip may  forfeit your deposit and your place. We only offer refunds if the tour is cancelled because of government imposed restrictions and or lockdowns in which case there there will be a full refund This is the rare exception to our no refund policy. We feel we have to offer this as planning travel under Corona has uncertainties. 

INSURANCE -

Medical Travel insurance will be required for this trip as we will be in a remote location. We also recommend trip cancellation insurance as well for your own peace of mind. Lots of people like https://www.travelinsure.com and they cover both

Some thoughts on Corona - The last thing I want is the gringa tourist bringing death and disease to vulnerable indigenous populations. We all know how that turned out in the past. All tour goers will need proof of current  Covid vaccinations. I know there may be those among you who are unable to get vaccinated because of medical vulnerabilities and I am sorry but no exceptions. 

We’ll enjoy a beach sunset welcome dinner followed by a movie about the local community and native popcorn! 

A day to get our bearings. We’ll start at the local mercado - eating and drinking all manner of strange and wonderful foods and end with lunch at a local hot spot. Afternoon to relax poolside or explore more. Evening dinner And textile talk..

We leave bright and early on our way to Pinotepa Nacional. En route we stop in Tututupec, a town that has been continuously inhabited for a couple of thousand years. We visit the tiny community museum which houses many important artifacts from this ancient culture. Later a young man, working to revive his towns traditions, teaches us about natural dyes using shells. 

Heading to Pinotepa de Don Luis, we meet with the town muralist and learn about the old stories.  Then we‘lol see a demo of  the traditional skill of gourd carving for which Don Luis is famous. See how these carving skills are being translated into contemporary printmaking and even make their way into your favorite kicks when we visit an artists co op. The afternoon is a very special stop in the neighboring village of Jicayan known for their primitive pottery.  Using little more than rocks and sticks, our friend crafts beautiful vessels to hold water precious to the town. Then back in Pinotepa for dinner and a swim, 

We leave the Mixtec villages and head to the mountain town of San Pedro Amuzgos.  The Amuzgos women are, arguably, some of the best weavers in all of Mexico and we meet one who will demonstrate cleaning, carding and hand spinning cotton, a nearly forgotten art in the Americas.  We’ll learn more about symbolism and technique.  Be humbled by this ancient wisdom. Lunch at a local Fonda where we’ll learn about nixtmalization and fresh corn tortillas while drinking fermented pineapple juice.  Then settle in at our amazing accommodations the home of a local weaver who is also a folk art collector. 

This is the double whammy of good shopping days.  For those on the textile hunt and those willing to get up early, we have it on good authority that local weavers come down from the hills to sell their wares today from 5 to 8. Quality varies and prices are unbelievably good. Doesnt quite fit? No worries, our local guide can have same day alterations. Then off to a tiny village of women who only speak their native language where a master weaver will open her home and invite her weaving friends to enjoy tamales and a fashion show with us.  We’ll learn about the role fashion plays in their lives and their hopes and dreams This is also a rare chance to custom design a piece for yourself.. Amuzgis weavers are considered some of the finest in all of Mexico and you’ll see why. 

We head to the end of the road and stop at a women’s coooerative in the tiny town of San Juan Colorado and learn about natural dyes, the revival of local cotton and fair trade. Yet another chance to buy weaver direct.  And in this case, they grew it, they picked it, they spun it and they wove it. How cool is that? In the afternoon a visit down tiny alleys to one of the towns best known mask makers.  Learn some about the traditions of mask and dance in these towns. 

We check back in with our favorite family in Don Luis.  All the daughters weave, the men (and one daughter) carve gourds and they have a side gig as performing acrobats (can’t make that up). We never know what’s in store when we visit. 

We head back to the coast today stopping on our way to visit a village of weavers and carvers.  Hear how the tiger came to have mirrors in his eyes and other local tales.  The town is also famous for its challah like bread and we visit an artisan bakery and sample the goods.  Last stop of the day is an evening swim in the magnificent bioluminescent waters of Manielteoec Lagoon.  

We return to the modern world with a day of reflection and restoration. Optional deep water nature adventure, massages and last minute shopping. We’ll gather for a show and tell and share  with one another at a sunset beach dinner. 

Today you head home or into your next destination, while some people

choose to stay on at the beach. Whatever you choose we hope you leave with a lighter heart and a renewed faith in humanity.