We’ll start the day by awakening our senses at a classic pastry shop beside the 18th-century Estrela Basilica. As we munch, we’ll be transported back in time, to the era when Lisbon was at the epicenter of the spice trade.

From there, we’ll journey off the beaten path—and to the present day—in the Campo de Ourique neighborhood, a “city within a city.” Here, we’ll learn about some of Lisbon’s hidden history, such as plots to subvert the Salazar dictatorship that dominated the country in the 20th century.

On our way to one of Lisbon’s finest traditional markets, we’ll also enjoy a belly-warming shot of ginjinha, a local liqueur made from alcohol-soaked sour cherries. Once we arrive, we’ll visit fishmongers, butchers, greengrocers, and bakers. We’ll descend into a bookseller’s secret basement, which stocked contraband literature during the dictatorship.

At lunch time, we’ll nibble our way around the neighborhood. First, we’ll try a few traditional seasonal specialties, and then we’ll move along to a hidden gem that has been upholding a family’s culinary traditions for generations. At a private association with a subversive past, we’ll dig into vindalho—a curry dish with ancestral roots in both Goa and Portugal.

Today, we’ll dive into Lisbon’s port district—where varinas, itinerant fishmongers, once peddled their catch from baskets hoisted on their heads—and learn about the deep affinity the city has for the sea.

We’ll begin with a bite at a neighborhood bakery, followed by a bica, a Portuguese-style espresso, at a wood-fired roastery still preparing coffee the old-fashioned way.

Next, we’ll wind through the neighborhood and its narrow alleys, catching the smell of fish roasting on charcoal grills. Down at the port, we’ll stop into port workers’ favorite grill joint, where—if we’re lucky—we’ll try in-season sardines.

We’ll visit a wonderful family-run winery and vineyard, then, keeping with the theme of the sea, enjoy an early dinner at a classic waterfront seafood restaurant with views over the Atlantic.

You’ll have the evening free to discover Lisbon after dark.

After breakfast at the hotel, we’ll travel to the the lavishly tiled Convento das Trinas do Mocambo, a former convent now home to the navy’s Hydrographic Institute. On a private tour, we’ll learn about the building’s intricate decoration and Portugal’s Moorish heritage.

From there, we’ll journey to Lisbon’s last active convent. Hiding behind the whitewashed walls in the city center, it withstood the devastating 1755 earthquake and remains awash in original details. After lunch in a neighborhood eatery, we’ll tour the convent’s art collection and try our hands at making pastel de nata, the locally beloved egg-yolk tart.

After sampling our custard delicacies, we’ll have a few free hours to explore the city before regrouping at the hotel to head to a multi-course feast at Jesus é Goês. where the boisterous chef, Jesus, will describe the relationship between Portuguese and Goan cuisine.

After breakfast, we’ll drive south along the coast to the small city of Setubal, situated on the Sado estuary, for a deep look at the city’s fish industry, rooted in ancient times. We’ll start by visiting Portugal’s largest and best wholesale fish and seafood market for a better understanding of the country’s aquatic bounty. We’ll have a have a snack at a lunch counter favored by our favorite fishmongers before boarding the ferry across the river for an afternoon on the Troia Peninsula. Here, we will visit the Roman-era ruin of a factory town which produced garum, a fermented fish sauce considered a delicacy in Roman times. While n Troia, we’ll have a late afternoon meal, sampling some of the local specialties, before heading back to Lisbon for an evening free.

This morning, you’ll be free to zip or wander around the city on your own.

After lunch, we’ll meet up at the hotel, where a historic tram will be waiting to whisk us off. We’ll ride through the city’s winding streets, stopping into a number local cultural institutions to hear their stories. Over a quick drink, we’ll meet the people keeping these institutions vibrant.

We’ll tuck into a delicious farewell meal at a contemporary Portuguese restaurant, celebrating our final night in Portugal over local wines and fresh takes on classic fare.

Depart for home or extend your stay in Lisbon.

Until the next adventure!