It's taken me a while to write this, because I'm conflicted. I'm glad I went, but would have trouble going again if I had known in advance what the experience would be like. I think the tour experience outweighed the discomfort, but ...
Dimitra was the perfect tour guide and a lovely person. Itinerary was wonderful and flexible, owing to the limited number of passengers. We did and saw so much. Sacred interment ceremony for me, having brought ashes to scatter. Fabulous night at traditional Greek festival. Impromptu cooking class/demo. Private lyre music and invitation to play the instruments outdoors by the beach at dinner. Rituals, philosophical discussion, yoga, wild horses, day cruise to visit a couple of lovely islands ...
That said, I think I had all too quickly succumbed to a form of limerence, totally smitten with Jody's glowing description in March 2026, and should have tried to access more complete and realistic info. I might not have gone if I knew there would be 5 of us plus all luggage crammed daily into a small suv, this after the first 2 days when we had to suddenly scurry around, taking city buses and trains in groups of 2 and 3, because the available vehicle wouldn't fit 5 people. When a slightly larger car became available, the driving to activities, sites, and between lodgings was cramped for so many larger adults. You should have sprung for at least a van and provided water and some small snacks for day trips so we wouldn't have to carry it from grocery stores and then bring enough on our backs for a day's worth of climbing and sightseeing. There wasn't enough room in the car to add another bag to our belongings, carry an extra bag with say, a 6-pack of water. Backpacks were tightly squeezed under our legs, and thus hard to get into while we drove with three sitting cheek to cheek? hip to hip? in the back seat (for lack of a better way to say ... "overlapping" -- no, wait, that's perfect!), but once the suitcases & secondary bags filled the trunk space, that's where we had to hold our day packs. Tour rate was pricey per-day for such a bare-bones operation, cramped, uncomfortable rides, and so few meals included. My initial voiced concerns before signing up about climbing in the sun and getting around in the blazing heat were minimized, and I wanted to believe the assurances that by end of August/early September the temperatures would be "getting more moderate". They didn't and weren't. I didn't realize just how physically demanding the tour would be, largely due to having to carry all our stuff so much. Very few people in our hotels were fluent in English, though I had been told that "almost everybody" in our touristed parts of town would speak it.
In sum, the trip was memorable, beautiful, and Dimitra was extremely accommodating, but I will continue to hunt for such a wonderful small-group experience with a bit more service and support.