Ice Leader Course
$415/climber.
January 8th & 9th, 2027.
There is definitely some black magic involved in leading ice, especially steep ice. Elevate your climbing technique, anchor and protection systems, and learn the ropes with our Ice Leader Course.
In addition to our private training and coaching days (available all winter long), we are offering a group course for the 2026 season. Scheduled early in the year, this course is designed to help you kick off your season with solid information and a strong foundation.
This two-day course provides a comprehensive introduction to the skills required to lead on ice. We will examine the classic technical skills involved - placing ice screws, building anchors, and protecting the pitch - as well as the more nuanced aspects of the craft, such as how to read the ice, how to assess the terrain, and how to improve your movement and climbing technique. The course will focus on leading in a single pitch environment.
Optimized for climbers who already have logged mileage as followers and are gearing up for the sharp end, the course is open to participants with a minimum of 10 days of climbing experience and have the ability to top-rope WI3.
Program must have two participants to run.
Gear needs
As far as technical equipment goes, please bring what you have of the following and let us know what you might need to borrow:
We are happy to supplement and provide gear, but having as much of the following as possible will prove really helpful as you learn the ins-and-outs of your specific kit:
Boots
Crampons
Ice tools
Helmet
Harness
Ice Clippers
Backpack
A tube-style Belay device with dedicated locking carabiner (a guide-style device, such as a DMM Pivot, ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso, is preferred).
3 - 4 extra locking carabiners
Anchor Building Material:
18 - 20' cordellette and/or a 240 cm dyneema sling
180cm dyneema sling
Double length (120cm) sling
Prussik Loop (recommended: 13.5" Sterling Hollowblock)
4 shoulder length slings (60 cm; each with 2 non-locking carabiners, dyneema is preferred)
4 - 6 quickdraws
Ice Screws (a good starting rack would include 1x 21cm, 3x 17cm, 6x 13 cm)
Optional: Tethers for ice tools
Optional: Personal Anchor System
What to Wear and how to take care.
Here is some general information on what to bring. The key is to bundle up and have layers that all can be piled on top of each other. Shell pants are ideal but ski pants can work as a substitute (although they're often a little baggy around the ankle and can get caught in crampons).
When thinking of food to bring, go for rich snacks that you will be excited to eat throughout the day. I tend to favor a combination of sweet and savory, although a timeless climber classic is leftover pizza.
For fluids, it's great to have warm drinks. Hot tea and warm gatorade are the best when it comes to really taking care of yourself, but hot coffee and cocoa can often boost morale. When filling water bottles in the morning, run the tap as hot as you can, fill with hot water, then slide the water bottle into an insulated sleeve (a spare sock will work) to keep it warm. No one wants to drink cold water out there!
Shop local! Visit Savage Gear in downtown North Conway to see their selection of Mountain Equipment apparel and their custom gear that is hand-crafted and purpose-built for climbers!
What's included, what's not
What's included
Rentals of technical equipment
(Although it's best to be using your own gear so that you can learn all about it).
What's not included
Winter Layering System
While we have a few extra things that we can loan out (like belay jackets and extra gloves), you will need to come prepared to be comfortable all day in the cold.
Transportation.
You will be responsible for getting yourselves to the climbing site (maximum drive time of 30 minutes from North Conway).
Guide Gratuity.
Like they say, "never expected, but always appreciated".
About the organizer
Cathedral Mountain Guides
54 reviews
Cathedral Mountain Guides specializes in providing high-quality, low-ratio, technical climbing experiences in the White Mountains of New Hampshire and beyond. We are a group of dedicated guides that pull from an incredible wealth of experience, professional training, and local knowledge. The safety and well-being of both clients and guides is our top priority, every day we operate.